Showing posts with label Pocket Square. Show all posts

Tipping the Scales

It's Hip to Be Square(s)

Beckett & Robb

On the one hand, today's outfit is easy. Everything in the pic above is made by a company named Beckett & Robb. Not only will they custom make the flannel blazer and wrinkle-free shirt for you, they'll also make you the tie, pocket square, and tie bar.

But, depending on the cloth you choose, a Beckett & Robb suit can cost from $695 to over $7,000.

So what if you wanted to put this together on your own? Or...more importantly...you want to understand why it works? Aha! Now you're talking my language. So let's explore...

Give Some Weight to the Scale

When wearing patterns, one of the basics to pull it off well is to make sure you vary the scale...the ratio of designs in proportion to each other. 

On today's model, the "squares per inch", if you will, are different on the shirt, the pocket square, and the blazer.



Simple concept, right? So let me construct this backwards to bring it back around to that point.

The Accessories

The Tie Bar 2" Textured Solid Knit Navy
Putting aside scale for a moment, we start with the tie. The Tie Bar has this in Navy for $25. They also have a darker shade called Midnight Navy that doesn't have as much blue in it. I point them both out so you can make sure to get the right one. I've found mine surprisingly versatile in the number of outfits it works with.

The Tie Bar 2" Brushed Straight Gunmetal Tie Bar

For $15, you can also get the 2" tie bar from The Tie Bar (that only makes sense, right?). Gotta love this company for its variety of products and affordable prices.

The Tie Bar Table Pocket Square in Royal Blue..The Tie Bar Cotton Table Plaid Square in Navy

And, as long as we're on a roll, go ahead and pick up your pocket square from The Tie Bar for only $8. You can go with Royal Blue if you want to draw a little more attention, or get Navy if you want to play it a little more conservative. Either one should be just a shade different enough from your tie to work well.

Before this becomes an out-and-out ad for The Tie Bar (I swear they're not paying me right now) the pocket square gives us our first chance to talk about scale. Since we know the size of the squares on the pocket square, the grid on the shirt and the jacket need to be of a different ratio. So...

The Grid/Graph Shirt

You may come across the following shirt and think it would work. It will, but if you're anything like me the price will be a little hard to swallow.

Armani Collezioni
Described as "impeccably detailed", it should be. This Armani Collezioni shirt is $245! I've seen suits I would wear that were on sale for less than that. 

So you keep looking and you come across this next shirt from Lands' End. Are you maybe tempted to get it as an alternative?

Lands' End Dark Bay Blue Windowpane No Iron Dress Shirt
Watch out, this is where it all comes together and we can make a mistake. It's a very subtle difference, but look at the scale of the squares below.

This Is Your Test. What Do You Do?



The grid of the shirt on the left from Lands' End is just about the same size as the one on the pocket square. We need a different scale to really make this pop, so the one from Armani on the right is a much better choice, it gives us about a 2-to-1 scale difference.

Again, this is a small detail, but it can make a big difference in nailing that outfit and bringing your look to the next level.

Now, you don't have to pay almost $250 to get a shirt, so here is pretty solid option from one of my favorites, Charles Tyrwhitt. Only $35. Nailed it!.

Charles Tyhrwhitt Sky Mini Grid Check Non Iron Slim Fit Shirt

The Big Dog...The Blazer

Now, for our final act, the blazer. Like I mentioned in the beginning, you can just buy it from Beckett & Robb and be done with it. But, with our new found knowledge, you can also figure out for yourself what windowpane blazer works for you.

And in case you just don't want to think, here's a hint: almost any windowpane blazer!

Just try to make sure the fabric under the wide windowpane doesn't also include squares the same size as your shirt or pocket square, and as long as the colors mesh, you should be good to go.

Bonobos Giovanni Knit Blazer

For instance, if I run across the Bonobos Giovanni Knit above, maybe it's worth considering. We can certainly step it up from just the henley the model is wearing.

Saks Off 5th Carr Windowpane Sportcoat

Or, if I see the Carr blazer above has been marked down to $239 at Saks off 5th, maybe I'd consider buying that.

And if I see something ridiculously cheap on eBay, I know I can buy it and accessorize the whole thing for around $83 (shirt, tie, pocket square, tie bar).

To take it to the next step, keep in mind to use different textures when compiling your outfit. But that's a post for another day. For now, we've come full circle with our square talk, and it's time to move on.

Got a favorite place you've seen a Windowpane Blazer? Is $245 too much to pay for a shirt? Let everyone know by saying so in the comments below.


All Hail Herringbone

Brown Herringbone 

How To Stave Off Cool With Cool


via Pinterest

It's evening and this t-shirt seemed like a better idea this afternoon. I see goosebumps on my girlfriend's legs. And right about now I wouldn't be completely uncomfortable standing around a fire pit with a glass of whiskey in my hand.

Aha!  Fall is trying to creep in unnoticed. Time to start looking at fashionable ways to combat the chill. And the Brown Herringbone Blazer ticks the boxes for versatility, style, and most importantly on this nippy night, function.

Photo Credit: Scott Smith
via photopin

First, let's deconstruct the outstanding combo I found on Pinterest. It combines textures, materials, and perhaps most notably a winning color scheme.

The Foundation Piece

We're looking for a Brown Herringbone in wool, so as to keep us warm. It's not going to be uncommon to see these with elbow patches, so keep that in mind if you're buying off the web and can't see the elbows in the pictures. If you've already got one, you're all set. If you still need one, eBay is a good place to try. Or I've listed three options below.

Macy's

This Macy's version at $128 has some potential. The browns appear darker in tone than most, it's available in a wide variety of sizes, and it looks like it can be tailored for a nice modern fit. On the downside (depending on whether you like them) it has suede elbow patches, and the fit on the model's shoulders is so far off I'm a little concerned how this would lay. Personally I'd recommend trying it on first, or be mentally prepared to return it if it doesn't meet expectations.

via Macy's

Update:
The Tommy Hilfiger version above is a complete disappointment.  The material is like a couch from the 70's, the drape is awful, the browns are way too brown, and the shoulders are just as bad in person as they are on the model.

However, if Macy's is your go-to, there is a Ralph Lauren number that knocks it out of the park.  With a little tailoring, the tag says this a 100% wool number and the fit and fabric are great.  The priciest of the options here at $175 on sale, but I was surprised how much I liked it (click the photo to see a larger version).

Ralph Lauren via Macy's

Ben Sherman

Not matching the exact blazer that inspired this piece, but using it as inspiration, I really like this Ben Sherman option currently sitting around $121.

via House of Fraser

This is a 60% wool, 30% polyester blend that looks pretty darn nice. Elbow patches are the same material as the jacket, and you can also tell by the closeup cutaway that it has a nice pattern brought out by the choice of colors.

About the only thing I don't like about this is it ships from overseas, the sizing isn't done in suit measurements, and as of right now there's only 1 medium and 1 large left!

J. Crew Factory

Perhaps the most accessible and best combo of all of the above will be the J. Crew Factory Thompson Herringbone for $118.



90% wool, 10% nylon and doesn't appear as heavy as our original inspiration, but this comes in a variety of sizes, doesn't have elbow patches, and is going to have a pretty good fit once it's tailored.

So there are a few solid options. Seems like everyone makes a version of this jacket, so keep an eye out and when the right color, material, and price you like comes around, go ahead and snag one.

The Accessories

Now that you've got your jacket, you need to dress it up. There's a couple different options, but before we talk versatility, let's see about that original pocket square and shirt.

I've actually seen this style of shirt come up for sale on a few occasions, and since I'd usually be wearing jeans with such a casual piece, I wasn't quite sure how to pull it off without looking like a Canadian Tuxedo.

However, our original outfit nails it, and for something basic like this we can go to Ye Olde Reliable for simplicity, The GAP.

via GAP

This casual Western Denim number above contrasts the formality of the blazer, which is part of what makes this look stand out.

You could also go with a Blue Chambray if you like that material better, or the non-western themed Denim Worker Shirt.




GAP Iconic Denim Worker Shirt
GAP Blue Chambray

I think the important thing is find a color that contrasts the predominant shade of the herringbone you decide upon. With a darker jacket, choose a lighter blue...with a lighter jacket, choose a darker blue.

The Pièce de Résistance 

Now for the final touch, that pocket square!

It looks like a light pink or coral to me. But it really could be any contrasting 80's Dayglow color. The beauty here is you can play around with more interesting fabrics and brighter colors. Having at least three different patterns and weights of materials is what makes this outfit work so well.

If you don't have one, try the Tie Bar and this twill square in Coral (which might be my favorite) this knit silk pocket square in Coral, or this chambray version in red.  

Tie Bar Twill, Knit, and Chambray Pocket Squares (l-r)
To achieve the look of the model, any loosely stuffed fold should work...but give this Inverted Puff I found on whatmyboyfriendwore.com a try.

via whatmyboyfriendwore.com

Other Options

- Complete this look by pairing it with darker jeans, brown shoes, and a brown belt. Here I chose Levi's 514 Straight in Dirt Wash, added in even more texture with Buks Declan Oxford in suede, and didn't get too matchy-matchy with the belt and shoes, but chose a redish tinted cognac I wouldn't mind wearing.

Levi's via Amazon, Buks via DSW, Belt via Banana Republic


- Sub out a white shirt, or sky blue, for more Casual Friday type looks.  You don't need a tie, but if you're going to wear one, make sure the pattern is different than that of the herringbone or the shirt to create some contrast (if I didn't mention it 20 times already, contrast is huge in pulling this off). Lionel Plaid Blue to stand out, Bulletin Dot Yellow to play off the jacket, or Woodstock Plaid in various Browns to tie it all together.

Blazer via J. Crew Factory, Shirts via Charles Tyrwhitt, Ties via Tie Bar



- Wondering how to wear those light blue jeans you're still waiting to make a comeback? This blazer should contrast just as nicely as it does with our original inspiration's shirt. But, again, choose a different colored shirt from your jeans so you aren't head-to-toe light denim. Something in the red family should work, like this Classic Burgundy Dot Print Shirt from Banana Republic.
There it is. A jacket that works whether you want to understatedly outshine everyone during a night out on the town, impress at the office, or just show your significant other you've "still got it".

So stay warm, play with the wide variety of complimentary and contrasting color options, and please...for the love of all that's good...get your jacket tailored after you buy it.  Please!

It took me FIVE DAYS to get the comments working properly. So by all means, feel free to leave any thoughts, suggestions, or where you got your Herringbone blazer from in the area below.


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